plantbrain

Older pictures: Regards, Tom Barr

I use driftwood like Reef hobbyists use live rock, you add wood and the plants fill in the spaces to give a solid wall effect. Driftwood is much easier to work with than rock. Java fern is easy to grow and does well in non CO2 tanks if the light is correctly balanced, not too much. Regards, Tom Barr

Ola Luis, This is a client's tank, not my tank. The cars this client drives will make you envious! 300 Rummy Nose tetras 100 Cardinal tetras 12 Roseline sharks 20 Emperor Tetras Many plecos of various types(20 different species). 30 Cordy panda 2 SAE's I have not been able to catch Gold dojos are the white eel like fish Regards, Tom Barr

Needle leaf Java fern. They are attached to the driftwood, you cannot see all the wood in the pictures. Many hiding places for fish and you can still see them at the same time. It has CO2 added. Regards, Tom Barr

I replanted and removed all the black flourite and switched to good old cheap dolomite. I reduced the light from about 50-60 micromols at the bottom , to 30. Easier to see the fish, nice sediment, happier client. Tank is about 2 weeks old after the redo and complete tear down. Tank is far from done, but should grow in a bit, I'll make some plant changes. Moss should take over the tree in the slightly off center spot. Sort of a leaf effect on a bonsai. On the left wall, there will be 1-2 EcoTech wavemakers to provide a high current experience for the fish and to clean the tank nicely. This means 3000-6000 Gallon/hr pulsed floweds down to about 800 gph. Right now there is about 1000gph through the wet/dry filter, and separate loop for a large Ehiem 2250. And a 1500-2000gph wave continuous flow(this will be removed for the Ecotechs). Added new white moon lights on a reverse light switch, so when the lights go off, the moon lights come on. Still to do: 1. Add new return pump that's quieter. 2. Replumb to reduce bends/turns, head pressure. 3. Provide access to change a very old UV bulb. 4. Remove chiller loop and unit. 5. Add drip dosing 6. Add another auto feeder(one fell into the aquarium and is toast) 7. Install micro freezer for frozen food access at tank location(where chiller was) 8. Test lower lighting without HQI's running. The issue for me is that removing the Metal halides also means no ripple sunlight effect, but I get better growth without them and cleaner etc. The fish loading is high, some other issues occur since the tank is not touched much all week often times due to acess, but these can/are be/being addressed. Regards, Tom Barr

This is one way, then fill the aquarium once the HC has grown in. HC is a very CO2 demanding plant. Low to moderate light is fine, adding more light causes many issues and algae. 40-50micrmols of light is ideal. Regards, Tom Barr

All of these Angel fish are all F1's, they where born and raised in this aquario. They are about 2 years old. There are Discus that are about 6cm now that where raised on their parent's skin in this same aquario. Enjoy Tom Barr

Tank alone was about 3k$, the water changer is automated via remote control button. You can walk into the office, look at the tank, click a buttom, the tank changes 50% of the water while you work, 1 hour later, it's done, no work other than the pushing of a button. Regards, Tom barr

Uses the partial pressure of CO2 in solution to determine the CO2 content, not pH/KH. This does not consume any CO2 to determine the content/concentration this way and is not influenced by KH, buffers, tannins and it is a referenced probe. They have about a 5 min response time in good current. They cost 2000-3000$ however. To simulate river like flows, mix the water well to make sure the CO2 and nutrients are well mixed, and that the fine detritus is sucked up by the filters(cleaner tank). It's black flourite sand, very nice, pretty much inert though. I like ADA AS, but this client does not. So water column dosing is more important here. Will do. Regards, Tom Barr

Yes, http://www.laspilitas.com/groups/manzanita...Manzanitas.html All you wanted to know about them. We have many species. But they are not found much outside CA, just NV, AZ, UT, OR mainly and then only 1-2 species. Weird, given that it's such a weed here. Regards, Tom Barr

I have started a new client' project, this time a 450 Gallon starfire glass aquarium, 240 L x 90H x 75D (cm), this tank will hold 1000 Green Neons, shrimp. Plants are A coffeefolia on braches/wood, Crypt Green gecko in the rear center, Blyxa and hair grass belem in the front. Some swords near the wood and some C spiralis in the rear. Light is about 1.9W/gal max and mostly T12 lights. More on that later. CO2 done by partial pressure meter, so no pH/KH measurements or pH controllers. 6 Full top of the line Ehiem filters are used, a remote control starts and completes a 50% water change with RO water. We used Loc Line to do anything we want with flow and will also have a Eco Tech 2000 gph wave machine in the tank. Wood is all collected by me personally and added to the tank. Manazanita is a common brush/tree here in California, which is very similar in climate to Portugal. the filters and plumbing This is about the largest sized tank I'd want to own personally. Not a bad office tank huh? Regards, Tom Barr

Not for myself, I already did it once back 5 years ago. Some have rediscovered soil and Worm castings so I wanted to let them know that it was done, is still being done elsewhere. They think they are the first ones to realize this and that it is useful:) ADA aqua soil is similar, but cost more. Thanks, Tom Barr

I have made a thread for the DSM(Dry start method) here: If someone wished to translate it, they are certainly welcomed to. I've been growing HC in a room at the lab that has small tanks, but decided to try growing HC emersed. This led to the idea that follows: It's just growing HC initially as a terrarium plant, which is does quite well as and quickly sends runners and forms a thick mat that's very well rooted. I used ADA aqua soil amazonia, added enough water to fully saturate the soil without having it come to the surface. No CO2, no worry about fish uprooting it, algae, water changes pulling it up etc before it roots well. This can be done for large tanks as well that desire a large rug or mono culture of HC. Rocks can be added before, or after, just not moved around a lot while the grow in period is taking place. This method surly works for most ground cover plants also. Once well rooted, growing well, the transition is much less problematic and you have a high biomass, bacteria is formed as well and it takes about 2-3 weeks. One of the keys is growing it high moisture, so a glass lid or a plastic wrap should be used along with the tank's lighting(1.5 w-2w/gal of standard FL's works pretty well). Once grown in, fill the tank with water and set up=> instant clean healthy HC. It could not be easier, no dosing, no CO2 etc(that comes later, but is not nearly as troublesome, since the hardest initial phase is now done). You have a dense rug, established root systems, zero algae, well cycled N cycle in the sediment(bio already there after 3 weeks). Add water, CO2, filter and ferts. People always carry on about how hard it is to start up HC or a new tank. Well, here's a very simple solution, better and simpler than anyone else's I've ever read. If you have a simpler easier fool proof no algae and dense rug method, let us know Why limit/torture ourselves with water if it's not even needed in the start? Many do and assume they must, but that is their own limitation that they place on themselves. http://www.barrreport.com/articles/3361-ne...dd-water-2.html Here's the 180 Cm tank I did doing this method and the results: Pretty straight forward method. Regards, Tom Barr

The African tank: Start: Lately: The 120 Gal just got scaped and I'm not done replanting. the other 60 Gal is not done yet either. So you have to wait:) Regards, Tom Barr

Yes, difficult not to mess things up! The client trust no one but me to do work inside the tank. I'm pretty good at moving around without destroying things. I own 5 Aquariums, but they are smaller and easier to manage. Ahh.........But........I do not get paid to clean and set those up though Here's a few of my own tanks right now: This is my 38 Gal that is nearing completion, I use the dry start method to grow and the plants in first, then I add water and fill the tank up AFTER. This way: no water changes, no work, no algae etc, the tank is fully grown in and the roots are well established. This is what it used to look like: right after being set up: My 180 Gal: the HC 180cm worth: A bit different than the clients. Regards, Tom Barr

the light: tool used to bend the electrical conduit pipe: Back clamps attached to the stand: Regards, Tom barr

To do work on the tank, we drain about 60% of the water, then hang like a "bat", or I get in and stand on the wood, or I float if I need to do foreground planting/trimming. This is why I will never have a tank deeper than the my arm, about 70-80cm. regards, tom barr

This is my 38 Gallon aquarium with HC, I am doing the Dry start method, and will fill the tank with water in about 2 weeks. I started with a single pot of HC, about 3cm sq. Now I have 30X this amount. This is ADA aqua soil only. I used some old ADA aqua soil, which is why on the front, the HC is not growing nearly as well, which suggest that teh ADA AS loses a fair amount of fertility over time(the old ADA AS is 16 months old, the rest where the HC is growing well, is the new ADA AS). This method is very easy. After filling the aquarium, you add fish about 1 week later. It's entirely filled in by then. The poor growth regions will fill in once the tank is filled as the nutrients will mix well in the water column and allow the HC to grow faster in the front. Regards, Tom barr

Does anyone has the article by Vladimir on using Earthworm castings under sand? I know it was popular in Brasil about 4-5 years ago. Thank you, Tom Barr

More pics: Regards, Tom Barr

The Aquatics: What Real manzanita driftwood is suppose to look like, not those silly floral arrangement pieces......... Yes, I have several of these trees. Now for the plants: this was at Table Mt near Oroville, at the peak flower display, I've seen some parts in better shape, but it's still awesome. there are also 6 large water falls, no less than about 30-100+ ft and really cool lava rock all over. And you can see for 100 miles in most directions. Rainbow of colors: this makes nice wall paper: Regards, Tom Barr

I have long been driving, hiking, swimming, biking around the rural areas I live. Today it's a nice warm spring day in Northern CA. I look for wood, for rock, for wildflowers, waterfalls, trees, anything of interest, and I also look for aquatic plants. CA is not really known for aquatic plants, mostly aquatic "weeds", but there are many species here. This one always throws aquarist for a curve. And what I was originally after: This plant looks like a cross between Rotala macrandra and Ammania gracilius. Grows in deeper pools , about 2ft deep, flowing water always........has a very pretty red color. Enjoy, Regards, Tom Barr

I'll be taking some higher quality images and a video later next Month. It's very hard to get detail on a computer screen because the tank is so large, taking a picture of a 80-300 liter sized aquarium is easy! Regards, Tom Barr

I was wondering where the post went, thanks, this is more appropriate The tank is 12ft x 4 x 4ft and a 400 Gallon sump. We use 2 Iwaki MD 100 pumps and 500 Watts UV, there are 4x 1000W MH's, but they are noit used much, 2 hours per day and they have screens to reduce the intensity. I would had liked 400W x 8, but I came after it was too late:( The owner would not change these. Here I am in the tank to get an idea how big this tank is: Here's Mark Regards, Tom Barr

Mas: This tank uses the EI method. Mostly out of practical matters, not many have arms long enough to work on the tank without going underwater! We siphon the water to a cistern for irrigation. Regards, Tom barr